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Brit on Brit: Paul Smith and John Lobb

If Summer 2010 was all about denim on denim, Fall 2012′s big new thing is British on British – design houses, we mean. Paul Smith sale  and John Lobb have announced a collaboration that will see the two brands join their expertise in design and craftsmanship to create limited edition shoes.

 

The most intriguing part about this “marriage” of brands is the apparent clash between design philosophies adhered to by each label. John Lobb is all about the moneyed, old-world look while Paul Smith uk thrives in bold, adventurous creations, both in cut and colour. What in the world would the final product look like?

Well, the collaboration has already made its debut on the Paris catwalk at the Paul Smith bags  Spring Summer 2013 show on July 1st and will be available worldwide from John Lobb stores and selected Paul Smith shops from September 2012.

The press statement says, “For act one of this new partnership, Paul Smith wallets brings a punctuation of colour, somewhat a signature of his, to three iconic John Lobb styles, selected for both their heritage and contemporary appeal. Rather than changing the fundamentals of these fine shoes, the addition of colour respects the original understated style yet brings new life and just the right amount of fun. In menswear, a little tweak goes a long way.”

In short, all Paul Smith did to John Lobb’s shoes were do them in a bright colour that falls within the PS rainbow. This is the reason why we now have regal purple Willoughby oxfords bearing John Lobb’s signature. Yay or nay? We would pass and stick to either Paul Smith cufflinks  or John Lobb, but we’re sure there’s someone out there who would appreciate questionably-hued loafers.

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Paul Smith is a label that has become synonymous with classic British tailoring and style. Inspired by the traditional British menswear he admired as young boy – such as his brother’s Post Office shirts and the tweeds of the Nottinghamshire country set – Smith’s greatest attribute is simplicity. He has described his designs as "well-made, good quality, simple cut, interesting fabric, easy to wear" and often adds a splash of vibrant colour, a floral print or his signature multi-coloured stripes.

Born in 1946 in Nottingham, England, Smith’s childhood ambition was to become a professional racing cyclist. He left school at 15 with no qualifications and began working in a Nottingham clothing warehouse as an errand boy. He relished his cycle to and from the warehouse each day until aged 17 he was in a serious accident and sustained injuries that put an end to his racing ambitions. Six months in hospital followed, during which Smith made friends with people from the local art college who would introduce him to the world of art and fashion.

Returning to his job at the warehouse, he used his newly acquired interest in art and fashion and began making displays for the showroom. Soon after, he was made menswear buyer.

Smith also started to take evening classes in tailoring in Nottinghamshire where he learned to cut cloth as well as the basics. Soon after, he joined Lincroft Kilgour in Savile Row after being spotted by chairman Harold Tillman, where his designs were worn by celebrities including footballer George Best.

Paul Smith now has 15 shops and concessions in the UK and 200 shops worldwide, in markets including Japan, Paris paul smith shop, Milan, New York and Hong Kong. The business, still based in his native Nottingham, has turnover of £325million. As chairman and designer, Sir Paul is still involved in every aspect of it.

Known for his positive outlook on business and life, Smith has become a key figure of the British fashion industry. Although he is an internationally celebrated fashion artist nowadays, Smith is known to have remained very much down to earth. He frequently visits his shops, talks to customers, and learns about his clientele’s needs.

• In 1969, Smith met his wife-to-be Pauline Denyer, then a fashion design student at the Royal College of Art. With Denyer’s encouragement he opened his first shop called Paul Smith Vêtement Pour Homme on 10 Byard Lane paul smith uk, Nottingham in 1970. It was the only shop outside London to sell labels like Kenzo and Margaret Howell paul smith outlet, and Smith soon started selling pieces that he had designed himself and had made up by local manufacturers. "That first shop was only 12ft square and I thought, "There’s not much to see. Why would anyone come?" So I’d always have a poster from the Pompidou Centre to sell, or three school notebooks from a trip to Greece," Smith told the Telegraph in 2008.
• By 1976 Paul showed his first menswear collection in Paris, under the Paul Smith label. He gradually expanded the retail business, being the first fashion brand to open on Floral Street in London’s Covent Garden in 1979. His shop offered an eclectic combination of clothes and finds for men which reflected his own magpie personality.
• The designer opened his second London store in 1982, his third in 1983 and fourth in 1987 – the same year he unveiled his first New York boutique.
• In 1990, Smith created his first children’s collection.
• After discovering that 15 per cent of his clothes were bought by women, who were attracted to his modern use of fine and classic materials, he first introduced a women’s collection in 1993. In the same year, Smith took over the traditional (established in 1885), but bankrupt workwear company R. Newbold and quickly incorporated many of their famous cuts into his collection.
• He received a CBE in 1994 for his services to the British fashion industry.
• In 1995, Paul Smith Limited was awarded The Queen’s Award for Industry for export achievement. In the same year, London-based Design Museum opened a retrospective of Smith’s 25 years of work in the fashion business, calledTrue Brit, marking the first time the renowned museum devoted an entire exhibition to a single fashion designer.
• He was awarded the Honorary Freedom of the City of Nottingham in February 1996.
• In 2000, Smith was awarded a knighthood, an accolade that until then had only been bestowed upon one designer – Hardy Amies. On the same day he wed Pauline, his partner of 30 years.
• In October 2001, Smith published his first book, entitledYou Can Find Inspiration in Everything.The tome was described by Smith as his"brain on to the page".
• In May 2002, Smith accessorised the England team for their World Cup matches in Japan and Korea. Working with the FA and Umbro he designed a selection of leather wallets, cufflinks, shoes, eyewear, watches and luggage.
• He won Menswear Designer of the Year and Women’s Contemporary Designer of the Year at the British Style Awards in 2003.
• In September 2004, Paul Smith was named Designer of the Year for the fourth year running at theGQMen of the Year awards. "I am absolutely delighted paul smith belt," he said. "It’s a really genuine honour."
• In February 2007, Smith was awarded an honorary fellowship of the Royal Institute of British Architects – an organisation that rewards outstanding contributions made to the world of art, design and architecture. The lifetime accolade is handed out to just ten people annually. "Receiving the honorary fellowship is a real honour," said Smith. "I am both shocked and delighted because RIBA is an association that I really admire, and architecture is very close to my heart."
• Smith admires the work of Yves Saint Laurent. "I was fortunate enough to see some of Yves Saint Laurent’s first haute couture shows in his Paris salon – one in particular I remember was in homage to the Vietnam War and it was all in black. Then he did the famous see-through blouse in clear silk chiffon. The audience literally took a mass in-take of breath – as if we’d been watching a firework display. Obviously the fact that he pioneered le smoking for women proved how modern his thinking was," he said on his VOGUE.COM blog in 2008.
• Since May 2008, he has contributed to VOGUE.COM as a guest blogger.
• Despite his earlier accident, Smith has maintained his interest in cycling and is an avid follower of professional racers. He dressed professional cyclists and Olympic winners Sir Chris Hoy and Bradley Wiggins CBE for their various official engagements, following their successes at the 2008 Beijing games.
• In May 2009 Sir Paul Smith dressed football team Manchester United ahead of their Champions League Final against Barcelona. He created two suits – one in a grey Prince of Wales check and the other in black wool – which both featured specially created red lining and stripe piping, accompanied by a black raincoat and luggage set for each player. "It is exciting to be involved with Manchester United," Sir Paul Smith said. "They have such an international fan base and I know our customers in Japan, Korea, Hong Kong – in fact all South East Asia paul smith london, Europe and the US – will be interested in the partnership. It has been an honour designing and supplying suits for the team."
• In 2010 Smith was honoured at the Condé Nast TravellerInnovation and Design Awards.
• He launched Paul Smith Junior in the autumn of 2010. Staying true to his unique vision showcasing a bright, punchy colour palette and silhouettes inspired by the men’s and women’s catwalk offerings. "It is really exciting to return to designing clothes for babies and children. It is 10 years since we had a children’s collection which we stopped because we literally could not keep up with the workload due to the business of our men’s and women’s collections," said Sir Paul Smith.
• Despite being one of the most financially successful fashion businessmen in the world, Smith has spoken many times about his hatred of society’s pursuit of wealth. "The obsessive pursuit of status, wealth and power has done much to drag ambition’s reputation into the mud," Smith asserted to VOGUE.COM in 2010."And nowhere has this been truer than in the banking industry, where ambition has curdled into greed."
• Smith takes a more relaxed approach to his business: "My top tip is to take it slow. Life is a joy. You don’t have to be rich and famous straight away. Take it easy, grow gently and you’ll have a lovely life," Smith told VOGUE.COM in 2010.
• Dedicated to his work, Smith as spoken of his struggle with taking time off. "I’m not very good at relaxing," he has admitted. "When I was on holiday in the summer I kept ringing the girls in the office and they said to me ‘Paul what are you doing?’ Holidays just go on for too long – I don’t know what to do with myself. I don’t get much time off but I’m so privileged. I don’t think of work as work – it’s just another part of life. The artist John Coulson said once ‘It’s not what you take out, it’s what you take in’ and I like that saying."
• Paul is well-known for his love of collecting. A self-confessed hoarder, his Covent Garden office is filled with art, books paul smith bags, sports memorabilia, toys and objects sent to him by fans from all over the world. "Occasionally, I’ll relegate toys to the basement room, known as the Department of Silly. It houses innumerable wacky items, a vast collection of rabbits in various forms and sizes – the result of a throwaway remark I once made about them bringing me good luck. Now I get sent between 10 and 20 a week, and was even presented with a real, live one seconds before the start of a Paris fashion show – one of life’s more surreal moments," he said in October 2010.
• He is a keen photographer and has photographed many of his campaigns himself. In September 2010, he presented a collection of photographs of The Royal Ballet’s Principle Dancers, which he later exhibited at his Albemarle shop.
• In September 2011, Smith designed a limited edition copy of John Le Carré’s novel, Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy paul smith iphone 4 case, featuring a design from his collection of limited edition screen printed posters, in conjunction with the release of the film adaptation. Only 250 copies have been made, making it a collector’s item for fans of the author and the film.
• In October 2011 Smith was shortlisted for the 2011 Prince Philip Designer’s Prize.
• He has released several fragrances including Extreme paul smith sale, Paul Smith London, Floral and STORY.
• Smith has been involved in numerous collaborations, including those with Cappellini furniture (2002), Oakley sunglasses, Burton snowboards (2005), Mercian bikes (2006) and Triumph motorbikes (2005).

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